Ultimate Survivor

Spotted hyenas are bold and powerful apex predators that have fired our imaginations for generations. They have lived alongside people for millennia. But it's an uneasy truce. Hyenas are man-eaters.

♘♘♘

My introduction to hyenas came during my first trip to South Africa. In Kruger's Malelane campground, hyenas sometimes patrolled the fenceline, perhaps looking for handouts from campers grilling up steaks and burgers on their "brai" or barbecue grill.

"Does that electric fence work?" I asked my neighbor, pictured, while setting up my tent by the fence.

"No, mate, that's not an electric fence!" he said.

 

Hyenas live in complex clans led by female matriarchs. They hunt and scavenge both solo and in groups. African folklore is rife with stories about the hyena because these opportunists are adept at living near people.

Hyena pups keep a low profile while the rest of the clan is out hunting at night. The babies are vulnerable to lions when the adults are gone, so they remained quiet the entire time.

Home sweet hole! I found a hyena den while exploring Kruger National Park. This nearly grown pup was waiting patiently for breakfast.

The hyenas I photographed were very curious about me, which made them great photo subjects. They are prepared to exploit any opportunity for easy meals. This pup is adorable.

Hyena tracks along a river feature their doglike, four-toed pads. Hyenas are more closely related to civets and genets than dogs or cats.

Hyena eyes reflect light in the dark. Their night vision is excellent — far better than mine.

After an arduous trip where we got stranded on muddy roads for hours before getting towed out of the mire, we finally got to our remote campground in Uganda late one night. While carrying our gear to the dark campsite, I spied four pairs of eyes staring back in the light of my headlamp. They bounced their heads up and down, staring intently at me. Hyenas!

"They're impala," our guide said dismissively. After a long, stressful day, he had zero patience left, but I was unconvinced.

"Those are hyenas!" I said.

"They're impala!" he said.

They were impala. And I'm an idiot.

During my last trip to Kruger, I saw far more hyenas than lions. But each encounter was brief. During a night game drive, we came upon a huge clan of hyenas hunting impala. The hyenas surrounded our truck, making birdlike whoops in the darkness. It was disorienting and a little scary. Their calls seemed to bounce off the terrain, making it difficult to track their source. The terrified impala were panicked but did not know where to run in the utter dark. It was amazing.

Hyenas live in matriarchal societies. These pups were waiting for breakfast. They didn't have to wait long. Mom brought home a guinea hen.